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©2004 Susan L. Stevenson
All photos are copyright protected Click thumbnails for enlargements |
| Saturday, May 1 | ||||||
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A new month; a slightly new format. I figure with the purchase of my new camera, I will probably be wanting to show some more photos. I was wasting quite a bit of space with my other layout so this might work better. May already! So hard to believe... We have now been residents of Alaska only 6 weeks short of an entire year. I eagerly look forward to what is known as 'green up' here in Alaska. That seemingly short day, or hour, or maybe moment, when the new buds on the trees and bushes burst open with their new growth. Although the days are getting warm, and lasting much longer now (17 hours), Alaska is still plain in color. Brown, gold, tan, black. The grass is not green yet. The trees are still bare of leaves. The leaves that remain are brown and dead and somehow found a way to hang on through the long winter months. Only the pines and spruce trees are green, but they never lost their color. I did see some dandelions yesterday and was so thrilled to see bright yellow, I wanted to stop and pick some. Yesterday I had lunch with a friend and then we took a drive through town in search of something to photograph. I see photos in just about everything. We came upon a house with a yard that was full of old appliances. Refrigerators, washers, dryers, stoves, dishwashers. A junk yard. That's the downside to spring thaw. The trash, debris, old cars, appliances, and other messes that were once camouflaged with pure white snow, come back into view. Couple these eyesores with the dull tan and brown of the world and it's downright ugly in places. Mostly the out of the way places. But once in a while, you'll find a house with this kind of mess smack dab in the middle of two houses with neatly trimmed yards. I know I'd be upset about that...
I bravely extended my hand and stroked her face. She was being harassed by the major enemy of Alaskans - the mosquito. They attacked her from each side of her face, not giving her any relief. I snapped a few photos of her and was surprised at just what my camera was capable of capturing. She watched this mosquito intensely, as if trying to intimidate it and keep it from biting her. But while her attention was focused on this bugger, five or six more where busy landing and biting the other side of her face. Today, I took care of some chores around the house and then headed out to Denny's to meet up with some friends from the Alaska Living Group I belong to. Most of the same people were there, (George and Ella and LuEllen, Georganne and her two children, Charles and Moe and their three kids). But I did finally get to meet Pamela (the moderator) and her husband, and another nice gal named Jean. We talked for almost an hour and a half and could have talked a lot longer. I really enjoyed myself a lot and look forward to our lunch meeting next weekend when Jan DeNapoli (the musher) is back in town. On the way home from Denny's I decided to take a drive downtown and take some photos. I am enamored with my zoom lens. Not only with the clarity of the photos, but of the anonymity I can employ when shooting photos of people. It's so much easier to get a good candid shot when your subject has no idea you are watching them.
I think my presence distracted him. (I know how I feel when I try to paint or draw with an audience). So I drove away, but stopped a few hundred feet from him - partially hidden by a grassy berm. With my zoom, I was able to clearly see his progress on his painting. And I thought it made a lovely photo. His angle as he painted was almost exactly the same angle I chose when I shot my photo of the church. It is a wonderful subject to reproduce - whether on canvas or photo paper. Tomorrow, we're off to Denali again. I want to get a good workout with this camera! |
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| Monday, May 3 | ||||||
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Steve and I had the most fantastic day yesterday. We drove back to Denali National Park. I couldn't wait to play with my new camera and I wanted to be able to drive into the park to mile 30 one more time. The park opens to tourists in two weeks and then we'll only able to get into the park via shuttle bus. On the way back home, we stopped and ate at Monderosa's Bar and Grill - a restaurant recommended to me by three different 'long-timers'. If the locals rave about it, it must be good. (It was). It's basically a burger joint, but the burgers were huge (I brought home half a sandwich that I can enjoy today). Time for the photos... In addition to the Ptarmigan, we saw Dall sheep, moose, and quite a few other species of birds. The rivers and streams are nearly thawed now. The water runs swift, but the shores are still heavy with snow. Within a few weeks, there won't be a trace of the white stuff. The mosquitos are getting thicker and I don't relish the thought of slathering myself in Deet just to leave the house. Steve and I will be taking a month-long camping vacation beginning June 1st. Our itinerary includes stops in Paxson, Chitina, Valdez, Whittier, Seward, Anchorage, Homer, and Cantwell - among others. We are still in the planning stages, but will need to finalize reservations soon. The camper should be ready to go in a week or so. I'd like to pack our bikes too. When Chris comes in mid-July (still waiting for him to give me a definitive "yes"), we're planning to go back and explore the Kenai Peninsula some more. I think he'd enjoy seeing the glaciers and (hopefully) whales, eagles, and seals. We'd like to take a scenic flight to Kodiak Island and see if we can spot some grizzlies. I hope he can make it. Still no word from Brandon and Becky. I don't know what their schedule is. The Marines aren't granting block leave and it's difficult to get time off "just because" when you're in the military. That's a bummer. I wanted to have all three of the kids up. |
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| Wednesday, May 5 - Today "GREEN-UP" Came to Fairbanks! | ||||||
| You might think of spring as a season that
begins with a few buds on the trees, continues with hardy early flowers
and stretches from March into May. Not so in Alaska, where summer's too
short to slip into casually. Instead of meandering through an entire spring
season, locals refer to the process as 'green-up'.
It is a relatively quick process that usually occurs during the first part of May and it's the greening of the leaves on the willows and the birch that totally transforms the state from a very brown landscape to - by the middle of June - a very green landscape. The plants don't have much time for their whole life-cycle. The snow doesn't melt until the end of April, and then the ground freezes-up again around the first week in September. Fortunately, during the short summer, the days are long. There have been buds on the trees for about two weeks now. But they stayed tight and closed, just waiting for the perfect time to open up. And today it happened in parts of Fairbanks. I venture to guess that the entire city will be green by this time next week. I came across the first open leaves (tiny little things!) after work today, when I decided to take the 'long way home' and make a stop at Creamer's Field to view the birds. While at Creamer's Field I saw my first sandhill crane of the season. I spent almost an hour watching the ducks and geese. The sun felt wonderful on my face and, although it was a bit windy, it was a beautifully warm day. From Creamer's Field, I made my way home. But instead of going straight home, I decided to stop at Birch Hill Cemetery. The cemetery has been closed all winter due to snow. The road that winds through is gravel and is not plowed in winter. I took my time meandering through the grave sites. The cemetery is a peaceful place to visit. for me. As I was leaving the cemetery, I caught a glimpse of GREEN! What a welcome surprise!
The leaves at right are less than an inch in length. It is such a thrill to see the buds open and the leaves beginning to unfurl. I can't wait until the wildflowers start to bloom. |
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| Saturday, May 8 - A visit to Chatanika | ||||||
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Today, my friend Susan Spivey and I took a drive to Chatanika to explore and take some photographs. Susan had never been there before, and the last time I was there, there was still a thick blanket of snow on the ground. We stopped at an old gold mining village which opens for the tourist season, but was still closed even now. As we took photos from way down the driveway, we heard gunshots. We didn't think it would be a good idea to trespass with those sound effects. We continued to the Chatanika Lodge and I parked the car so we could take a walk over to the abandoned gold dredge. We also were privileged to see Black Capped Chickadees flitting through the sky surrounding the dredge. We tried to get photos, but they were quick and never seemed to settle in any one place too long! After taking a short walk though a nearby wooded area (and getting attacked by the awful mosquitoes that are already out in full force), we got back in the car and continued up the road a few more miles to a stream where ducks were playing. I pulled off the road so we could take pictures of the ducks. I was more impressed by the way the trees were reflected in the stream and shot a few photos. We then headed back to Fairbanks. On the way, we stopped at a roadside area where locals and visitors are allowed to pan for gold. There were about 9 people there (three groups) and they definitely knew what they were doing. They had pans, sluice boxes, sieves, and other tools. Gold is still found in Alaska. But most of the gold was mined up during the gold rush. You might find enough to give you some pocket change, but it is rare to become a millionaire panning for it now. (However, never say never!) Once we got back to the city, I drove over to Creamer's Field so Susan could see the sandhill cranes. Unfortunately, they were too far away to photograph adequately, so that was disappointing. The ducks however were in a feisty mood and were diving and flapping their wings like small children in a swimming pool. I managed to get a few shots of these antics.
Family news: My mom is in the hospital with an infection and very low blood pressure. The doctors did an echocardiogram and various other scans to rule out blood clots or blockages in her arteries or heart. The tests came back normal and they said her heart is in fantastic shape. She was admitted on Thursday after passing out twice while having blood drawn. They originally were only going to keep her for observation overnight, but decided they would keep her until Monday morning and treat her infection with intravenous antibiotics. According to my sister-in-law Diane, she is in good spirits and even enjoying the hospital food. I'll be calling her tomorrow to wish her a Happy Mother's Day and I'll probably get some more information then. |
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| Sunday, May 9 - HAPPY MOTHER'S DAY! | ||||||
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Happy Mother's Day to all the moms in my family and all my wonderful 'mom' friends! I hope today was a day when you were spoiled, appreciated, and maybe even got breakfast in bed or a nice dinner out. My day wasn't any of the above. Steve was training today at the MOUT (Military Operations on Urban Terrain) Site. This site is surreal in that it is a direct replication of an urban town. There are buildings, vehicles, and even people (other military members playing the role). Our MOUT site has a bakery, a coffee shop, a bank, a school, a municipal building, an apartment complex, and so much more. The vehicles which mostly litter the streets are burned or broken down. Inside some of the buildings are 'odor machines' and they pump out artificial smells to lend to the reality of the site. In the bakery, the smell of cinnamon buns wafted through the air. In the coffee shop, the smell of freshly roasted coffee hung in the air. In one of the apartments, the smell of human sweat permeated the air. Sometimes the machines spew out the putrid smell of charred flesh or human waste or sewage. It's all to make the training as real as possible. I don't want to go into my thoughts and emotions about my visit to the MOUT Site to take photos for the company website. They are deeply personal and strong. War is ugly. War is scary. Being in the midst of blank rounds and fake grenades did nothing to ease the terror in my heart. It may have been all 'make-believe' today, but it won't be make-believe next year, when my husband is walking down a street in a village just like the one they trained in today. Only the village they'll be in will have REAL enemies - not other soldiers play-acting. Here are a few photos I wanted to share:
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| Wednesday, May 12 | ||||||
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I know it has been a few days since I updated last. I can't blame it on anything in particular; I just haven't had the time or the inclination to update my journal lately. I'm sure a large part of the reason may be the incessant rain that descended on Fairbanks last week sometime and stayed with us all weekend and into this week. But today it is sunny outside. And warm (50's). And this weekend promises to be even warmer - with temperatures climbing into the 70's.
Later, when I took Shawna and Courtney home, Courtney was finally awake (she slept the entire time we were driving - typical with babies!) and I took the cutest photo of her. She was even smiling at me. OK... so maybe it was a smirk! As strange as it sounds, I took a close up photo of the dandelions that carpeted Shawna's front lawn. You can not imagine how beautiful the color yellow is when you are accustomed to the black and white of winter and the neutral tans and browns of early spring.
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| Friday, May 14 - Chris is coming for a visit!!!!!!!! | ||||||
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I finally bought Chris's airline tickets. He hasn't heard yet if Home Depot is even going to approve his vacation - they keep dragging their feet - but said he's willing to get fired at this point. (He's not happy there at all) I don't think they'll get rid of him. He's a good, hard worker. He's not asking for any sort of vacation pay; just some time off. He'll be flying out of Madison on July 9th and staying with me until the evening of the 17th. I am so happy he's coming. I am not happy that we have no choice but to pay outrageous fares because we live up here in the Last Frontier. (Round-trip - 675.00!) Our plans while he's in town are to drive down to the Kenai Peninsula again for some camping and exploring. I want to stop at Denali on the way so Chris can see McKinley - if it's out. Then we'll stop in Anchorage so he can see how much Anchorage is like most other large cities in the Lower 48. But the Kenai is like being in a whole new world. Mountains, wildflowers, wide open spaces, fishing towns, small populations, ghost towns, gold towns, and so on. If we can manage a flight or boat tour to Kodiak, that would be the icing on the cake. Yesterday, on the way home from work, I decided to stop at the Large Animal Research Facility (LARS) to see if the musk ox were in the upper pasture. I was in luck! These animals are just amazing. Their heavy coats make it possible for them to survive in temperatures as low as -100. In the winter, they grow an undercoat of wool like the coat on a sheep. In the spring, this wool is shed - or in the case of domesticated musk ox - combed off. Native Alaskan People use this wool to weave into clothes and blankets. While I was photographing these huge beasts, two males had a bit of an 'altercation' and one gave chase to the other. Then they faced off and charged each other - butting their heads together! The sound was loud and hollow. A deep WHOMP! Must be the nice weather making them ornery.
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| Saturday, May 15 - Fly Fishing in Alaska | ||||||
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Steve and I took a long walk through the woods behind our house yesterday afternoon. It was a marvelously sunny day and we couldn't wait to get out in it. The mosquitoes however, added a bit of extra movement to our walk as we waved and swatted them away from us. It's the time of year for the big bomber mosquitoes. They are lazy and fly slow, so they're easier to repel with a swat or a quick wave. Later in the season, they'll be replaced with fast-moving and dedicated blood suckers that are much smaller but steadfast in their desire to torture.
We soon came upon two guys enjoying some fly fishing. We stopped to watch for a few moments - intrigued by the choreographed casting of the nylon line into the river. This of course only whetted Steve's appetite to get his fishing gear and waders ready. He is SO looking forward to our trip next month. I might just try my hand at some fly fishing myself. Even if I can't get the cast right, it will give Steve great amusement to watch my antics.
Family Update: Mom had her consultation with the surgeon and is scheduled to have her tumor removed using laser surgery on June 2nd. The surgery will be performed via her urethra, so it will be 'relatively' noninvasive. There is concern that due to the tumor's size, the surgeon may have to remove it in two pieces. She wasn't clear on whether this meant two separate surgeries spaced days apart, or two separate movements up to her kidney in the same surgical session. The doctor also mentioned performing a chemotherapy wash after the surgery which helps to eradicate microscopic residual disease. She is back on antibiotics since being released from the hospital on Monday evening. It seems her infection has recurred. Her blood pressure however, has stabilized.
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| Sunday, May 16 - Exploring Nature and Discovering Wildlife | ||||||
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Last night, Steve and I went to a BBQ at Brian and Marcella's house. We had a fantastic time. We created and BBQ'd kabobs. Steve also took some moose and caribou meat with him and made burgers. We hung around the Hoffman's house until after midnight. It's not hard to lose track of time when it stays light out for so long. Even at midnight, the sky still had traces of orange glow in it from sunset. Today, I slept in until 11:30am. That is totally unlike me! But I suppose I needed it or I wouldn't have slept so late. Steve spent the morning making phone calls and finalizing reservations for our trip in June. After I had my much-needed coffee and got dressed, we decided to take a drive through the wooded area here on post in search of beavers. My friend LuAnn had discovered the beavers last week. Steve and I had been to the lodge before, but hadn't seen any activity. After hearing her account, I was on a mission to photograph them myself. At first, Steve got a kick out of doing some backroad exploring. The roads (dirt) are a disaster with ruts and deep puddles - deep enough to cover the tires on his truck. I'm glad we didn't get stuck. There were lots of ducks along the way - bathing and swimming along in the many temporary ponds which will disappear in a month or so. We saw a sandhill crane too, but he took off before I could get a photo. We finally headed toward the beaver pond and saw both beavers swimming in the pond outside their lodge. They wouldn't come close to the shore, so I had to be happy shooting them from afar. But it was exciting to watch them swim and dive. When we got too close to their lodge, they'd slap their tails in the water warning us to 'scram!'.
Another great thrill for me was coming upon a hidden little patch of pasque flowers. They were a beautiful purple and yellow in the midst of brown underbrush. The pasque flower (the plant is called pasque flower because it blooms at Easter), is used by Native Peoples as an herbal remedy for cataracts, cramps, and a variety of other ailments. |
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| Wednesday, May 19 - Trip Plans | ||||||
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I've numbered our stops in order of visit. We'll be spending at least 2 days in each location, except for the last stretch before heading home. Here are the cities we'll be stopping to camp at: 1. Paxson When Chris arrives on July 9th, we'll be heading back to Homer with tentative plans to visit Kodiak Island to view the grizzlies |
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| Wednesday, May 19 - Sunny Days in Fairbanks | ||||||
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The day started out foggy and overcast, but by the time I got to work, the sun was shining. Which of course made me wish I didn't have to be cooped up all day. After work, I decided to take a drive downtown and walk around the area with my camera. The clouds were amazing - big and puffy. The river was running swiftly and there is so much green now, it's like the entire world has woken from a long nap. While downtown, I came across a teenage girl skateboarding in a parking lot. I pulled over and used my zoom to take a photo of her without her knowing she was being watched. She was skilled on the board and 'caught air' several times. When I got home, I took Sedona for her afternoon walk and took a leisurely stroll through the surrounding woods. There's a tree root that I see when we take the long walk. It looks very different now that it's surrounded by greenery. Today's photos: |
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| Sunday, May 23 - Seeing Gallagher! | ||||||
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What a weekend! Steve and I are still diligently making preparations for our trip. It's hard to believe we're leaving here in about a week. All our reservations are made and the camper has been made ready for summer. We had a slide-out awning installed to keep water and debris out of the camper when we bring the slide in. The awning itself was nearly 400.00. Shipping and handling to AK was 160.00!!!!!!!!! The drawbacks to living in the Last Frontier... On Friday night, Steve and I went to see Gallagher at the local arena. Much thanks to our friend, Susan - who got us free tickets to attend (the advantages of knowing people who work for the media *wink*) Our seats were straight back from the stage, but not close enough to risk being covered in gooey food mess. Steve and I had a wonderful time! There was food flying, watermelon flying, water flying... you name it - it went flying. The people in the 'splash zone' had to wear trash bag raincoats to keep from ruining their clothes. There were also huge sheets of plastic to hold up to block the food from smacking you in the face.
We had a really enjoyable time at the show and I got a lot of messy photos. I wish I knew how to get some of these photos to the parents of the kids. I caught some incredibly funny facial expressions on some of their faces. Before the show, we went to the Dogsled Saloon for dinner. It was very crowded - both inside and out on the deck too. It is apparent that 'tourist season' has arrived in Fairbanks once again. RV's are on the road, people with cameras slung around their neck are wandering the streets, and the tour buses are out in full force. I remember last year at this time, we were on our way here. I'm sure we looked like tourists when we first arrived too. Although I still carry my camera around my neck, I feel like a local and not a tourist. It's a good feeling.
Yesterday, Brian and Marcella came over for dinner. We ate late (9pm) and it was still brilliantly lit outside. We're at about 19 hours of full-blown sunlight. There is no darkness any longer. The sun goes below the horizon but still illuminates the sky. So far, we're not having too hard a time sleeping. I hope Chris can adjust when he comes in July. I can't wait to have him here!!!! |
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| Tuesday, May 25 - Last week of work! | ||||||
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I am happy to have finished the first day (my longest day) of my last work week until August. I am ecstatic! The weather has been so beautiful and I've hated being cooped up in an office. After Thursday, I'm FREE! And in 6 days, we leave for our trip. We both need this badly.
Today, after work, I walked through campus with my camera looking for flowers. There are flowering choke cherry trees all over campus! I had to get some close-ups. Little did I know, I'd get to practice shooting bees too! I also finished the template for my boss and her husband's Native Alaskan Ministry called "Alaska Vision". I am hoping to attend a few celebrations and special events so that I can take photos. She was so enamored with this journal of mine - and loved the color scheme - that she asked me to use the same for hers. She also liked the fact that I have the state of Alaska in my header and wanted that incorporated into hers too. (What a copycat! *grin*). I spent an afternoon putting something together and here is the result: |
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| Thursday, May 27 - FREE at last! | ||||||
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FAMILY NEWS: I talked to Brandon today. He is trying to schedule his second shoulder surgery for sometime before July if possible. His unit is returning to Iraq in August. Right now he assures me that he is non-deployable because of his medical profile. I pray that is true. If he is able to have his surgery by the end of July, he estimates he'll be through with recovery and physical therapy by the end of January - which is when he is planning on getting out of the Marines. Although he originally had plans of moving to Wisconsin, he has now swung his thoughts back to moving home to Philadelphia. It really doesn't matter to me where he decides to go. If he goes to PA, I get to visit him and the rest of my family. If he moves to WI, I get to visit both my boys together. He and Becky are flying to Salt Lake City the last week of July to visit with her family. Brandon has never met anyone in her family yet, so this is pretty important. Becky's parents were generous enough to purchase their airline tickets. I suppose I shall have to wait until next year to see them. I haven't seen Brandon since before he went off to war - Christmas, 2002. A year and a half.... too long. |
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| Sunday, May 30 - Picnic Photos | ||||||
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Steve and I managed to get most of the stuff done that we need to before leaving on Tuesday morning. We've got a friend mowing our lawn while we're gone and doing drive-bys to check on the house. The grocery shopping is done and the camper is stocked with the dry/canned foods. Steve will turn on the refrigerator today and get it cool enough to stock with our cold foods tomorrow. I haven't even begun packing yet. Still catching up on laundry and trying to predict what the weather is going to be like while we're on the road. It still gets chilly here at night, and lately the weather in Western Alaska has been overcast and rainy. I promised my friends in Anchorage that we would bring sunny days with us. Yesterday, Steve and I managed to take a break from the trip planning and attend a picnic hosted by my Alaska Living group. Everyone who had RSVP'd showed up, which made for a good time. I truly enjoy visiting with the locals. In fact, I feel I have more in common with the locals. They are here because they WANT to be here - not because the military sent them. They chose Alaska as their home and they appreciate the beauty, the simplicity, the solitude, and the people. I have found myself stepping back from some of my military friends. As time has passed, I realized that quite a few of the gals were more preoccupied with complaining about living here, or being gossipy about others, or just basically being mean-spirited. That is so not me. Perhaps there was a time in my life when I followed along with the others because I wanted to feel accepted - but those years were so long ago and seem to have happened in another woman's life. I have decided to ignore their behavior and chalk it up to childishness and immaturity. A young friend of mine just said to me: "Once a year, I mentally go through the list of my friends and acquaintances. Any who are not positive influences in my life, or breed negativity, are cast off. I compare it to taking out the garbage." So I guess you could say, I've taken out the garbage. And what is left behind is a fantastic group of supportive, trustworthy, and positive people. So, as I was saying, Steve and I attended a picnic yesterday. We enjoyed great food (we all brought an entree and a side dish), had fantastic conversation, and even had some wonderful entertainment when Jean took out her fiddle and played Celtic music after we were through eating. Some photos from the picnic: |
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